Starting Right with Blueberries
Blueberries are among the
most nutritious fruits you can eat. High
in anti-oxidants these little gems are easy to grow in the home garden. If that isn’t enough, Blueberry bushes are
attractive additions to the home landscape.
Although easy to grow and relatively pest free, you will be most
successful if you make the effort to start out with some careful preparation.
First, consider what type of
Blueberry you want to grow. In North
Idaho you have the choice of 3 types:
Next, consider
varieties. The best production is
achieved by having a minimum of 2 varieties with overlapping bloom times to
ensure good cross-pollination. Consider
choosing varieties with different harvest windows to lengthen your fresh berry
season, while ensuring that the bloom times overlap. For example, you could
plant an early variety with a mid-season variety or a mid-season with a late
variety. Enjoy berries all summer by planting very early, early, mid-season,
late and very late varieties. 6 to 8
Highbush Blueberry plants should provide a family of 4 with all the fresh
berries they can eat plus plenty for preserves, pies and sharing.
Choose a site with 6 hours or
more of direct sun exposure. Blueberries
will grow with less sun but expect lower yields. A site protected from high winds is also
advisable. Your blueberry patch should be located with easy access to water and
preferably where you can enjoy their beauty.
Blueberries prefer a soil
with high levels of organic matter and a very low (4-5) pH. A soil with good moisture retention and good
drainage is essential. Careful soil
preparation will pay years of dividends.
I suggest “double digging” your Blueberry bed and adding lots of
sphagnum peat moss. Sphagnum peat has a
very low pH and excellent moisture retentive characteristics – perfect for
Blueberry culture. I start by digging a trench about 2-3’ wide and spade depth
(8-10”), the length of the row, setting the excavated soil aside for the
moment. The soil in the trench is then loosened to spade depth. Put 3-4” of
moistened peat moss in the trench, mixing it with the loosened soil. Next,
layer the excavated soil that you set aside earlier, using a 3” layer of soil
alternated with 1” of peat moss. Once you’ve used all of the soil that you
removed from the trench, mix the layers together using a spading fork or shovel
then rake it smooth, mounding it in the center of the row. This should leave you with a nice raised bed,
high in organic matter and with a pH at least close to your target range. If you are planting multiple rows space them
about 6-8’ apart. Before you plant, it
would be beneficial to have your soil mix tested for pH. Further pH adjustment
if needed, can be made with elemental Sulfur.
Set your Northern Highbush
Blueberry plants 4-5’ apart within the rows. Dig your planting holes a couple of inches
deeper than the root ball is high. After setting your plants in the holes,
backfill ˝ full with your soil mixture then fill the hole with water. After the
water drains, fill the holes to grade and apply water once again. Apply a 3” layer of mulch. Partially rotted pine
needles or sawdust work well.
Remove any flower buds for
the first year or two so that the plant will direct its energy into root and
shoot growth. Water well, daily for the first couple of weeks then water weekly. 3 weeks after planting, apply 2 ounces of
fertilizer around each plant. A Rhododendron-Azalea type fertilizer works
great.
Sounds like a lot of work but
the rewards are bountiful and will come for years and years! Watch for tips on caring for your Blueberry
plants in a future issue of The