Dennis Moore, Editor
OPENING DAY
The Flower Farm opens to the public on Friday, April 6. Visit us from 9 to 5 Monday through Saturday and 10 to 4 on Sunday. We look forward to seeing you!
We'll begin our weekly Saturday appearance at the SANDPOINT FARMERS MARKET in Farmin Park on May 5 and continue through July. Saturday market hours are 9 to 1. Come Join the fun!
We'll begin our weekly Saturday appearance at the SANDPOINT FARMERS MARKET in Farmin Park on May 5 and continue through July. Saturday market hours are 9 to 1. Come Join the fun!
A Publication of The Flower Farm of Sandpoint, Idaho
NEW PLANT PICKS
208.263.8764
www.sandpointflowerfarm.com
Spring 2012
Proven Winners continues to lead in the world of Calibrachoa breeding with two new additions to the Superbells series. Superbells Cherry Star has a great upright mounding habit. The rich cherry color of the flower petals is dissected by a bright golden star that runs from the petal’s edge to the center of the flower’s throat. This distinct star pattern is very stable throughout the growing season.
Superbells Cherry Star
Sweet Tart is covered with soft pink flowers with a large lemon yellow eye. This new member of the Superbells series of Calibrachoa is so sweet you just wanna taste it. Sweet Tart features a strong mounding/trailing habit, creating cascades of blooms - an exceptional choice for containers or hanging baskets.
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NEW PLANT PICKS
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As I look over the list of new Petunias we are growing, I can't help but think we've gone a little overboard. With so many exciting breakthroughs and refinements, it can be so hard to limit ourselves to a reasonable number of new additions. There are far more than we have space to mention here but I’ll share my personal favorite. Supertunia White Russian from Proven Winners is unlike any I’ve seen. It has all the vigor, weather tolerance, ease of maintenance and non-stop blooming power of the Supertunia series but the antique white flowers with rich chocolate throat and veins is both unique and subtly beautiful.
Supertunia White Russian
Superbells Sweet Tart
THE CARE AND FEEDING OF BLUEBERRIES
OK, you’ve carefully selected and planted a few blueberry plants last spring. (If you haven’t, see STARTING RIGHT WITH BLUEBERRIES below.) So, What now?
The first year after planting, all of the flowers should be removed to prevent the plant from fruiting before it has built up sufficient reserves. Trust me, I know this is a hard thing to do but you will be rewarded in following years with a stronger, healthier plant that will bear loads of fruit for many years to come.
The first year after planting, all of the flowers should be removed to prevent the plant from fruiting before it has built up sufficient reserves. Trust me, I know this is a hard thing to do but you will be rewarded in following years with a stronger, healthier plant that will bear loads of fruit for many years to come.
PRUNING:
Your goal in blueberry pruning is to maintain a healthy supply of 2 year old wood while removing enough of the older wood to prevent overbearing resulting in smaller berries and/or biennial bearing. Blueberries are best pruned in late winter or early spring as the buds are just starting to swell and break. You’ll do little pruning the first year. Just remove any broken branches as well as any that have died over the winter.
In years 2 through 5, start by removing any broken or winter damaged branches. Next remove any weak, spindly growth and any lateral growth from the base. Then remove any branches that are crossed and rubbing together. Leave all of the remaining old wood intact, select 2 or 3 vigorous, upright branches of new wood to keep and prune the rest out as close to the ground as possible. Your goal after pruning in the fifth year is to have 12 to 15 vigorous, upright branches of various ages.
In the following years your goal after removing broken, damaged and spindly growth, is to remove about 1/3 of the oldest wood each year, thinning out the center and maintaining good spacing. Allow a like number of new, vigorous, upright branches to remain and prune the rest out.
Your goal in blueberry pruning is to maintain a healthy supply of 2 year old wood while removing enough of the older wood to prevent overbearing resulting in smaller berries and/or biennial bearing. Blueberries are best pruned in late winter or early spring as the buds are just starting to swell and break. You’ll do little pruning the first year. Just remove any broken branches as well as any that have died over the winter.
In years 2 through 5, start by removing any broken or winter damaged branches. Next remove any weak, spindly growth and any lateral growth from the base. Then remove any branches that are crossed and rubbing together. Leave all of the remaining old wood intact, select 2 or 3 vigorous, upright branches of new wood to keep and prune the rest out as close to the ground as possible. Your goal after pruning in the fifth year is to have 12 to 15 vigorous, upright branches of various ages.
In the following years your goal after removing broken, damaged and spindly growth, is to remove about 1/3 of the oldest wood each year, thinning out the center and maintaining good spacing. Allow a like number of new, vigorous, upright branches to remain and prune the rest out.
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THE CARE AND FEEDING OF BLUEBERRIES
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